The controller portion of this project will be based off an Arduino Mega 2650. Of that the intent is to use 30 of the available digital channels. The target for 30 is arrived that for each remote board I can get 6 channels pretty easily. That is driven by 8 wires in an rj-45, with 2 being used for power – leaving 6. Based off how many lights we actually wanted to hang, we decided 5 groups of 6 channels should fit the bill. Getting to the design on the Arduino shield I quickly discovered I was limited by the 4×3 inch area provided by the freeware version of Eagle PCB design. In hindsight I should have just ponied up the credit card and purchased the hobbyist version. I will probably end up getting that for next years’ inevitable growth.
With the working limitations I had, I needed to break the shield up into two pieces, as I could not fit everything in the 4×3 working area. I ended up making one board for 18 channels, and another for 12. Here is a zip with the eagle files. I warn you in advance the .sch files are not pretty… They are free to use for non-commercial purposes.
Overall its a pretty simple design. Arduino pin goes high, opens the gate on an NPN transistor. This grounds the led on board lighting it, as well as proving a ground leg for the remote board which turns on the remote LED and Optocoupler which in turn flips the triac on. Simple daisy chain effect.
Turning that into a working board was a bit trickier, as I couldn’t get it designed as a single sided board. That mean I had to get the board aligned perfectly after milling one side and flipping it over. After the first board which I got close but not quite (pictures below) I figured it out on the second board. It turned out to be much easier than I was making it..
Of importance is the get the board aligned straight along the x axis. I did this by routing a .1″ deep square the board fit in. The square was oversized, I just wanted a straight x-axis line. I then mounted the board against that axis with double-sided tape. make sure there is 100% coverage on the board.. don’t leave tape gaps as board will flex down on z axis in those spots. I then aligned the x/y corner and etched the bottom of the board, and drilled the bottom. The gcode for these operations were created through pcbgcode which I wrote about in another article.
To get the top of the board, flip, re-tape, and align to the x axis. Then jog the CNC to line up on a few selected holes from the previous drilling operation. In eagle, hover your mouse over these holes and you will see the x,y location. Enter these in your machine, and validate a few other holes. You should be good to go for etching on the top!
First attempt with trying to measure offsets for the front/back operations. This created some offset holes, which had to be managed a bit with a dremel grinder. Still a usable board.
Second attempt using the eagle offsets described above, which came out very nice.
Next update will show assembled boards, and hopefully a video of everything operational.