It appears the road to a GPS-Controlled airplane (Drone) is paved with broken Styrofoam. Pictured above is on of my first automated flights on an old P-47 I had. It lived up to its historical nickname of “Jug” which is how they look when they nosedive in to the ground. To move forward I am going to try to make my own airframes from a $15 AirHog glider I picked up at Target. I have a few of them on hand, and they are pretty big. Each wing is 2′ long. To start I needed to cut off the top, so I can CNC in some pockets inside to hold an arrow shaft (for strength) and to house all the electronics.
I do not have a Styrofoam cutter, but I do have some nichrome wire I used as a electronic firework igniter so I hacked something together. I took the blade out of a tree saw I have, strung some nichrome, added a 12v wall wart and sliced away.
I have started laying out the electronics, servo mounting holes, and cuts for flaps in my cad software, and will share those results when I get them on the CNC.
Been pretty lax about updating this blog recently. I have undertaken a fairly time consuming build of a virtual pinball machine. I have been making posts in a forum on that topic as I have required input from that community throughout the build. I am almost(ish) done and will make a video highlighting the process when complete. In the interim, if you want to see some of the gory details you can check out my build log.
Update : Build complete!
My son plays baseball, and keeping equipment organized is an ongoing challenge. While sticking bats in the chain link fence is a time-honored tradition, I thought I would whip up a bat holder. I can’t take credit for the concept, as one of the municipal parks had a similar solution permanently mounted. Mine is a knock-off using 2″ pvc pipe and some rope.
The machining was very simple, its basically two rectangles per bat. The only trick was to do one series of rectangles, then rotate the pipe 90 degrees before doing the second.
My wife started a new project at work, and as this project is a big one, it meant a new notebook! She got a very nice green moleskin, but the cover was quite plain. As we both love the Big Bang Theory I was tasked to put a likeness of Dr. Sheldon Cooper on the cover. Rigged up a sharipe in a pen holder, and off to the races!
Original picture, and gcode here.
I saw this CNC halftones article quite some time ago and setup the the CAM drawing quite some time ago. I never really got around to routing it, as I wanted to test it in two-color plastic instead of the painted plywood the original authors used. As luck would have it, BF plastics had some white/black material on clearance last week so I picked up half a sheet. The material is only 0.1″ thick, so I used 3m spray adhesive to mount it to 1/2″ plywood. About 30 minutes or so with a 60 degree v-carve bit and it was done! I need to pick up a 45 degree bit i think, as this one did go a little deep in places, you can actually see some wood on some of the wider letters. Still looks sharp!
The .dxf and gcode can be found here.
On the machine:
This project was one of those long-running ones which took almost 7 months from when I saw the first one out there and wanted to make one, to when I actually got started. One of the big catalysts was Joe’s blog post on his build – so hats off to him! Joe did perf board wiring, and I wanted to create a circuit board for the task. The reason for this was twofold: (1) I hate perf board and (2) I wanted to build the atmega circuit and bootstrap it myself.
So if you watch the video below, you will see I failed at getting my atmega to run. Could not figure it out! Next time I will surely include additional LED’s (pin 13 anyone?) to aid troubleshooting. So, that said in the zip file attached you will find my eagle schematics. If you use them, be aware the microcontroller portion requires some additional scrutiny. Maybe its fine, and I just messed up the wiring. Who knows. If you want to take a peek at it and give me feedback I would appreciate it!
Other big change/addition from Joe’s build was I added a Real Time Clock (RTC). In my case I used the ChronoDot. It is much more accurate, and tracking time in code was MUCH easier. Here is my code, eagle schematic, and .DXF file for the led array.
I got the components mounted on the main and remote boards. After much deliberation we dropped $12 per remote node to pick up some waterproof plastic ammo boxes to put the electronics in. These boxes will be out in the yard exposed to snow/rain. The boxes worked out very well, as the 3-gang outlet box fit nicely inside. Just drilled a hole in the bottom so the cords can go in/out.
Wiring up the outlets was pretty easy. Common wire was shared across them all, and the hot (black) wire was sourced from the circuit board (triac). I did not use any ground wire as the Christmas light strings don’t have ground. I also used a pretty light gauge wire as I will only be driving a single string of LED lights per outlet.
Got everything wired up at the neighbors and everything worked well. Even with 100′ cat5 runs to some of the remote boxes everything worked well. We did have some flakeyness where it would lock up occasionally after a few hours. I upgraded the wallwart power supply to an old computer supply, and at the same time fixed a solder joint for the ground wire that looked ‘cold’. Not sure which of the two upgrades fixed the issue, but all is good now.
Below is a picture of the main controller board wired up on the workbench. Will post a video of the light show in the next update!
One thing you may notice is the FTDI controller connected via USB. This is due to the fact the Arduino Mega changed the way they emulate usb/serial. This new chip on the arduino is not identified by the software running the lighting show (Vixen). Using an older-style FTDI board remedied that situation…